Dining Review: Luminaria
In a setting that can only be described as splendiferous, this past summer’s opening of Luminaria, at the Inn and Spa at Loretto, raised the culinary bar on Santa Fe hotel dining to a lovely new level. On a perfect late summer’s evening, as shadows fell on the spires of world-famous Loretto Chapel, my table of six was spoiled and charmed by executive chef Brian Cooper’s opening menu. This has to be Santa Fe’s most beautiful setting for outdoor patio dining: Twinkling chandeliers sparkle under flowing fabrics that create a feeling of a Moroccan caravan. Knowledgeable servers lead inquisitive diners through the eclectic menu, furthering the theme; you’ll feel like sultans in their care.
A sprightly, impossibly fresh summer pea soup has light cheese gnocchi afloat in it, and a jicama-citrus salad is garnished with popcorn and dressed with zippy pomegranate dressing. Chef Cooper, assisted by wife and dining director Erica, clearly has a sense of humor that translates tastily to the plate. There’s a tender confit-of-duck white-corn tamale to remind you that you are in New Mexico, and a luscious griddled crab cake with a red-chile-lime aioli, a terrific rendition of the popular appetizer.
Main courses fall into two categories: fully realized and sauced dishes, and a “chophouse” section with straightforward grilled items, à la carte with side dishes of the veggie and potato variety. We opted for the chef’s creations, where plump scallops (above left, courtesy Luminaria) paired with salty Spanish chorizo over lemon spaetzle with a sweet-corn sauce put a delicious spin on surf and turf. The squash-stuffed tamale with roast-vegetable sauce received raves from the vegetarians at the table. Lamb lovers will enjoy the lamb duo—one porterhouse and one double chop from local Talus Wind Ranch, served on a bed of heirloom succotash and dandelion greens. Also order the yummy jalapeño creamed corn for the table.
This autumn, as the weather cools, move indoors to the handsome, clubby dining room and start with a powerful pomegranate lemonade cocktail, which packs a punch with Ketel One Citroen and limoncello. The large and worldly wine list is nicely priced; our New Zealand Nautilus pinot noir paired well with both fish and fowl. To finish the feast, sweet-corn doughnuts with three sauces and a Mexican chocolate fondue with homemade marshmallows provide even more food fun.
A highfalutin consulting group famous for creating Las Vegas restaurant concepts was brought in to help transform the former Baleen for the new landlords, Destinations Hotels and Resorts Group. But ultimately it is the Coopers’ creative energy and dedication that make this a must-visit for out-of-town guests and locals alike. Luminaria lives up to the name; long may she shine.
